Turkey: Aegean Coast. Pergamum to Ephesus
Pergamum Acropolis: Although I definitely liked it, I was a bit disappointed, maybe because it was the last big site I visited during the trip and I liked more other places.
The location is superb and the views fantastic. My favourite parts were the remains of Trajan’s temple and the theatre on the steep side of the hill, both really impressive, but the rest of the archaeological site is not as good.
I found Efes (Ephesus) much more beautiful, complete and interesting (I have compared them with Efes as they are supposed to be in the same league, and that was not my impression).
Visit still highly recommended, but if you have to choose between Pergamum and Efes…clearly Efes.
Foça: for our last weekend in Turkey we decided to go to Foça, looking for some relax by the seaside and good food. It was a great decision, as Foça really is a lovely and charming place. Perfect atmosphere, not too crowded, friendly people and enough things to offer to relax and enjoy a couple of days at least.
Sleeping: After checking a few hotels and pensions we stayed at Iyon Pansiyon
email bilgi@iyonpansiyon.com
Very nice pension, sitting in a old house and just a few meters from the marina. The staff was incredibly nice. I got sick after getting cold in the boat trip and they were very kind and helpful. Thanks to their attentive help I managed to get better in just 24hs. Price was 70TL room for 2 breakfast included. Very recommended.
Eating: we asked the pension owner for the best restaurant in town and he pointed us to Fokai Restaurant.
Sahil Cadesi 11, tel: 8122186
It was a perfect dinner. The quality of the fish was great and the restaurant was really charming. Price was 110TL for 3 persons including plenty of food, wine and beers.
Boat trip: we took boat trip and it was a great day out. Asked in several places around the marina but there were not many going out next day as it was almost low season at the time. Finally we took the tour with:
Delphin Gezi teknesi
Küçükdeniz
Öğretmen Evi karşısı
Foça
0 535 5197578
Delphinyacht@gmail.com
Price was very cheap: 25TL (the same everywhere we asked), including food and tea. All tours did the same itinerary. Tour left at 11 and returned at 17hs. The journey was beautiful, with several stops for swimming and snorkelling. We even saw dolphins and the captain took it easy sailing close to them so we could spot them better. Lunch was grilled fish with salad, fresh and tasty. Tea and biscuits also included.
Hammam: pension owner strongly recommended hammam Belediye, run by Mehmet Esen. My girlfriend went with her girl friend and they loved it. I did not go myself. There is only one masseuse (the owner) so waiting times may vary. It seemed to be very much in demand with quite a lot of regulars that say they always go when they make it to Foça.
Ephesus (Efes): From Izmir we drove down the highway to Efes area. Toll price was 1.75TL, road in very good conditions. Recommended to take the highway (just 1 hr to Efes).
Ticket was 20TL each, debit/credit cards accepted. As most of the archaeological sites in Turkey is quite pricey, at least in Efes we got an interesting brochure.
Efes was not too crowded. We did the visit in the early afternoon. Explored the site for nearly 4hs, I found it impressive and inspiring. Most tours arrive early or mid morning, so after 1pm or so many were leaving and that improved the visit. There were a group of actors hired by a tour operator dressed as romans and playing a gladiator fight. It was ok, but they repeated it every 10 mins for over an hour! Groundhog day!
Definitely a must see. Nothing else to add.
Selçuk: After visiting Efes we spent the rest of the day and night in Selçuk. It was a really nice surprise in every sense. Beautiful and with many things to see, good value for money in accommodation, not too touristy, friendly people…a hidden highlight.
Stayed at Akay Hotel (www.hotelakay.com), it was an excellent choice (we liked it much more than for example, Lonely Planet’s author’s choice Naz Han, maybe cuter but quite overpriced). Checked most of the guides recommended hotels and pensions and this was the best value for money one. Price was 80TL breakfast included. The swimming pool was handy. The terrace was really nice, wide and ideal in a warm night. Lunch and dinner at the hotel were good, but not great. Price was around 30TL for 2 people each meal.
Sightseeing around Selcuk was very attractive, special mention to the small-but-cute Ephesus Museum (5TL) and the peaceful Isa Bey Camii mosque. The visit to the Temple of Artemis was bittersweet: the place is really meaningful (It is one of the Ancient Seven Wonders) and I had read about it many times, but there is almost nothing left. Besides, the site is shabby, dirty and semi abandoned…a place full of history and no present at all.
I’d definitely recommend to spend half day in Selcuk after visiting Efes.
Sirinçe: a real disappointment. The village is cute but literally ALL the villagers were selling stuff in stalls in the street. No own life whatsoever. In my eyes totally ruined, even if the houses, the location, the streets are nice. It was hard to feel cosy or the charm of it as the view of the houses was spoiled by the stalls. It is recommended in most guides, it just did not work for me.
Only one thing was great: Artemis Sirinçe Sarapevi Restaurant. Outstanding building, magnificent views of the village and the mountains around, perfect drink and bite outside in the terrace under a tree…and cheap!! 7TL for an excellent gozleme and a couple of teas! Worth going to Sirinçe just to have eat something here and admire the views.
Kusadasi: famous for being the harbour where big cruise liners stop to do the Efes visit. It has a reputation of completely spoiled village. We decided to go there and see it with our own eyes and…after 50 min we were rushing back to peaceful Selçuk. Worst version of the UK but abroad…skip it if possible.
Pamucak Beach: not as nice as other beaches in Turkey but good enough to spend a few hours swimming and relaxing. Very close to Selçuk if you have your own vehicle.